Northern Italy has a way with soups—or, as some would call them, stewps. This hearty barley and cranberry bean soup from Friuli–Venezia Giulia is precisely that: thick enough to stand a spoon in, deeply flavorful, and born from generations of cold-weather cooking. It’s not a quick meal; it’s a slow simmer of simple ingredients treated with care, yielding a dish that’s both nourishing and deeply satisfying.
The Essence of Friulian Comfort
This soup isn’t just food; it’s a reflection of a region. Friuli–Venezia Giulia, with its cool climate and mountainous terrain, has long relied on barley as a staple crop. Unlike the tiny, pasta-like “orzo” often found in American kitchens, orzo in Italy refers to actual barley—a grain that appears in this soup as a thickening agent and a key flavor component. Historically considered peasant food, this barley and bean soup has evolved into a regional specialty, demonstrating how necessity can breed culinary excellence.
Why Dried Beans Matter: Texture and Control
The foundation of this soup is dried cranberry beans (borlotti). Their thin skins and subtle sweetness make them ideal for long simmering, allowing them to break down just enough to thicken the broth without becoming mushy. Canned beans simply won’t do. Their pre-cooked state leads to a muddy broth before the barley has time to fully soften. Using dried beans gives you control over texture and timing—a critical factor in achieving the right consistency.
The Brine: A Simple Trick for Creamy Beans
Long simmering can be harsh on dried beans, causing uneven cooking. The solution? Brine them, and add baking soda. Salt seasons the beans throughout, while baking soda alters the pH, breaking down pectin (the structural carbohydrate that makes beans tough) and promoting even hydration. Restraint is key ; too much baking soda will leave a soapy taste. Rinse thoroughly after soaking to ensure a clean flavor. The result is a pot of beans that are creamy inside with skins that remain tender.
Pearl Barley: The Only Grain for This Soup
Barley isn’t interchangeable here. Pearl barley, with its outer bran removed, cooks evenly and releases starch gradually, thickening the soup without becoming gluey. Hulled, quick-cooking, or pre-steamed barley won’t behave the same way. Trying to swap in other grains—farro, wheat berries, rice—will throw off the liquid ratio and timing, resulting in either a watery mess or an overly dense porridge.
Technique Over Tradition
While traditionally served very thick, this soup is forgiving. Add hot water if it tightens up too much. Finish with parsley, a drizzle of olive oil, and a splash of red wine vinegar just before serving. Reheated gently the next day, it’s just as good. This is simple food, but its depth of flavor and satisfying texture will keep you warm and well-fed through the coldest days of winter.
This soup is a reminder that the most comforting meals are often born from necessity, perfected over generations, and made with a little patience.
